Spirited a Way

The art of infusing spirits with herbs, berries, and even insects or snakes has been known to humanity since the 3rd millennium BCE, originating in China. However, in Europe over the past five years, Ukraine has taken on the title of trendsetter, spreading ancient techniques in new formats, particularly in bars where craft spirits, made from ancient or unique original recipes, are being added to standard alcohol menus.

One of the most famous and perhaps the easiest Ukrainian infusion, with an alcohol content of only 17.5%, is the tipsy cherry—a moderately sweet spirit infusion with cherry berries, now being popularized worldwide by Lviv businessmen through their network, FEST Holding. On an industrial scale, the standout is undoubtedly pepper-infused spirits, sometimes with added honey, which has gained global recognition through international brands.

In reality, the list of popular infusions across Ukraine exceeds over 30 recorded standards, including infusions made from pine cones, tobacco, wormwood, and elderberry! Not to mention individual inventions, such as citrus blends with berries or nut-infused herbal blends.

In each city or bar, alongside the popular standards, there are special, unique creations. This trend of spreading Ukrainian bar culture extends far beyond Ukraine's borders. Even the bar at the first Ukrainian camp Kurenivka at the Burning Man festival, held in the Nevada desert, has amazed guests with a selection of 10 flavours since 2017, featuring tastes like blackthorn, cranberry, or horseradish, with visitors intrigued by flavors like "kalgan," an infusion made from the root of a ginger family plant (also known as "Carpathian ginseng"), very popular in Western Ukraine.

The technology of infusing spirits with berries, fruits, and herbs arrived from the East during the days of Kyivan Rus': a precursor to modern infusions was a drink called "Erofiy's vodka." The recipe was recorded in the 10th century: mint, anise, and crushed nuts were infused with vodka, left near the stove for 12 days. The taste appealed not only to the discoverers but quickly gained popularity among the people. Today, it's easy to recreate at home with ingredients available in any supermarket. The essence goes beyond taste; infusions were valued for their potent healing properties, and thus, were sold in "green stores," which were essentially folk pharmacies.

Ukrainian tradition might not be easily understood by the international community of strong drink enthusiasts, and the names don't always straightforwardly reveal what influences the taste in the glass. One of the most common recipes, "spotykach" (means “stumbling” in English), isn't a description of its ingredients but rather of its effect. It's expected that someone who indulges in a bit of aromatic and strong liquor at a bar will stumble on the way home. This effect can be easily experienced at home; here's the recipe.

Spotykach

A well-known spicy recipe with ancient roots.

• In a glass container with 500 ml of vodka, add 6 cloves, a pinch of nutmeg, and a tablespoon of vanilla sugar. Stir well and leave in a dark place for one and a half weeks.
• Prepare a sugar syrup in a saucepan: 100 g of sugar and 100 ml of water, heat gently until the sugar dissolves. Add the warm syrup to the infusion and mix well. Squeeze the juice from half a lemon and mix again.
• It's best to drink the ready "spotykach" chilled or over ice.

Infusions might seem like a chaotic blend of nature, a sporadic concoction in a glass that you simply pour strong liquor over and leave to sit until the opportune moment. Experts don't necessarily disagree but offer advice based on years of experience.

Illarion Sauk

Co-owner of Amigos Bar, Kyiv

Tips from one of the most renowned bars with extensive experience in crafting and consuming infusions.

In his own words, quoted directly:

"Firstly, for making infusions, you'll need clean glass containers with tight-fitting lids of the appropriate volume, preferably with wide mouths. You'll also need distilled water, a knife, cutting board, grater, and a strainer.

For the base, vodka, brandy, grappa, gin, whiskey, rum, or even vermouth will work. After all, vermouth is already an infusion, so why not?

What to use from ingredients? Imagination. Vodka pairs well with citrus, brandy with tart berries and fruits.

Rum goes well with fruits that grow around sugar cane: coconut, banana, pineapple. But apples and pears also complement it well. Gin pairs beautifully with tart berries and fruits, especially without added sugar. This can include cherries, red and black currants, elderberries, and raspberries.

Whiskey is sweet; it loves sugar, like rum. Berries with sugar and whiskey are always a winning combination; it's also good to add homemade caramel or chocolate to whiskey.

Proportions. It's always up to the decision and eye of the cook. The more, the better. Joseph Babel was once asked why he had the best tea among the entire literary beau monde.

Babel replied, 'Citizens Jews, don't skimp on the brewing!'

'Magic is what you make of it.' It's in perfecting the recipe and finding the ideal proportion that you'll achieve magic and alchemy!"

Infusions can be an unusual experience, a desire to express personality, a touch of cultural and gastronomic traditions, or even a reflection of societal development, finding unexpected uses and social consumption rituals. In this way, they also embody the function of existence. Is there anything better than a sip of herbal infusion with a view of snow-capped mountains, or a sunset under a pungent citrus aroma with the backdrop of sea waves? There are many examples of experiencing life, to which sometimes it's worth adding something special, memorable, and potent.