Authentic Portugal

“Our flowers are scattered all over the world” – Ukrainian women, seeking refuge from the full-scale war in Ukraine instigated by the Russians under their dictator Vladimir Putin, have ended up in various places across Europe, Asia, the USA, and Canada. Yet many of them remain optimistic and hopeful for victory and a return home. While the most significant war since World War II rages in Ukraine, Ukrainian women are exploring their temporary places of stay, discovering and sharing new facets of well-known tourist routes with their followers. One such Ukrainian is Iryna Chilachava, a Ukrainian travel blogger currently living in Portugal.

Photo: Ukrainian blogger Iryna Chilachava

I vividly remember feeling constantly disappointed at hotel check-in desks abroad when all my enthusiastic attempts to speak the local language were shattered by the manager’s reply: “Good afternoon, I speak Russian.” At that moment, the thrill of experiencing something new was lost, like being ready for a roller coaster ride but getting stuck at the top. I never saw the point in travelling thousands of kilometres from home to end up in yet another version of the “Russian world.” “Brother Slavs” in the hotel, tourist bus, or boat with 30 holidaymakers who haven’t lost hope of seeing dolphins at sea – that’s not what you want to see around you.

If you’re equally interested in authenticity untouched by the tourist industry, I invite you on an exciting tour of Portugal. But first, let’s get acquainted – My name is Iryna Chilachava (Iriska to friends), I am Ukrainian, and I have been living in Portugal for two years. Before that, I travelled a lot and even once said “Arigatō” (thank you) to the Japanese!

I currently reside in the central region of Portugal – in the city of Coimbra. I think you’re hearing this city’s name for the first time, as I did when I arrived here. No one is in a hurry here, there are no traffic jams, and only foreigners with the vibes of big cities get nervous in queues. For the locals, this is the usual pace. Initially, I resisted the measured life because it seemed like you’re slowing down and losing the opportunities of a big city, but globalisation helps curb ambitions, and then you find time for observations. Here, I discovered this city anew: it’s like being in a closed bubble with the Portuguese – I hear their everyday conversations, worries, even jokes about everything Spanish and Spaniards, taste traditional dishes without arugula and avocado, and sing “Parabéns” (Happy Birthday to you) at family celebrations. It’s truly like peeking behind the scenes of a famous play and seeing the real faces of the actors.

You already know about Lisbon, Sintra, Cape Roca, Porto, Madeira, and the Azores, so I’ll tell you about less touristy, but no less interesting, central and northern Portugal.

Portuguese Venice

Photo: Aveiro

Did you know that Portugal has its own Venice – the city of Aveiro? Aveiro is located near the ocean and a lagoon intersected by a network of canals. Slim, colourful boats called “moliceiros” navigate these canals. They were once used to collect seaweed but are now for sightseeing tours. If you sail through the lagoon, you can see salt pyramids where salt is dried in the sun. Fifteen minutes from Aveiro is the São Jacinto Dunes Natural Reserve with wild beaches. If you head south to Praia da Barra beach, you’ll find the tallest lighthouse in the country. 

What to taste: ‘ovos moles’ – sweets made from eggs and sugar, sold in wooden barrels or wrapped in crispy wafers in various shapes.

Historic Village of Piódão

Photo: Piódão

Hidden in the depths of Serra do Açor (a protected landscape area), full of stunning views, springs, and pastures, the historic village of Piódão has become popular recently. Getting to this mountain village is not like a 40 km trip to Sintra from the airport – you’ll need to travel 200 km on the motorway and 100 km on a serpentine road with edges as sharp as a blade. But the effort is worth it: all the houses and pavements are made of schist and punctuated by the bright blue of windows and doors. You can still meet native residents and chat about their lives. The entire walk will take about an hour – there’s even a swing that fits the whole family to admire the breathtaking mountain views. Streams from natural springs run down the village streets, used for irrigating fields and pastures. For some spice, it’s worth noting that due to its hidden location in the foothills, Piódão was once an ideal place for fugitives from justice. 

What to taste: Cabrito assado, chanfana – goat meat stewed in wine.

Peneda-Gerês National Park

Photo: Peneda-Gerês National Park

Covered with majestic mountains, enchanting waterfalls, winding roads, ancient castles, and villages, this is a land of peace hidden in dense forests. Be prepared to walk a lot, meet herds of goats with neck bells under the watchful eyes of shepherd dogs, admire blooming valleys, and dive into natural lakes. Travelling through the park, you might inadvertently visit Spain, as winding roads blur the borders, especially if thermal springs (‘Torneros’) are more to your liking than plunging into the spring water of mountain lakes. History enthusiasts should visit the village of Lindoso (meaning “beautiful” in Portuguese) to verify the accuracy of its name. There you’ll find a 17th-century castle-fortress built to defend against Spanish neighbours but never used for its intended purpose, so you can see it intact. Slightly mystical are the “houses on chicken legs” in the castle valley – but these are typical grain stores (‘Espigueiros’) also dating back to the 17th century. 

What to taste: Costelas de javali e de porco preto (Ribs of wild boar and “black” pork).

Coimbra – Portugal in Miniature

Photo: Coimbra, Source: Centerofportugal.com

Let’s add Coimbra to this list – firstly, it’s in the same region, so it’s on the way; secondly, it’s home to the world’s oldest functioning university – the University of Coimbra. You’ll hear fado here only performed by male students, as is historically the case. If you’re with children, there’s the Portugal dos Pequenitos museum: miniature houses, reduced copies of Portuguese architectural monuments and former Portuguese territories. It’s a charming place offering a unique view of Portugal’s architectural heritage. Believe me, children will be delighted, and adults too! 

What to taste: Leitão Assado (Roast suckling pig).

Yes, you understood correctly – in authentic Portugal, vegetarians and vegans will have a hard time. And don’t order a cappuccino here – they’ll bring you 3-in-1 instant coffee; ask for ‘Meia-de-Leite’ instead.

I hope my advice will be useful to you, and you’ll fall in love with Portugal as much as I have. 

Ate ja! (See you soon!)